Suva is an urban milieu of cultures and ethnicities. In the downtown district, modern shopping plazas sit side by side with colonial buildings, a breezy esplanade and an abundance of eateries. Off the main streets, you may feel like you have been transported to India in the jumble of bric-a-brac traders, curry houses and colorful sari shops. So many backgrounds converge in the city, making it a true celebration of diversity.
Suva Harbourfront
The best time to visit the capital is in July and August, when the fire-walking festival is held at the Mariamma Temple. Fiji has a rich tradition of cultural rituals, and this is the most impressive of them all. Men walk with the poise of ballerinas over blazing pits of embers in a truly baffling display of courage. Known as “vilavilairevo,” or “jumping into the oven,” the Hindu custom coincides with the full moon to teach the faithful about discipline, seeing the good in everything and living a balanced life. The entire city is occupied by preparations for the month before the festival, making costumes and performing various ceremonies. There is no more special time to be in Suva, and although visitors may not traverse the glowing coals themselves, they often walk away with a new sense of spirituality after witnessing the incredible event.
Other religions play a large role in the culture of Suva as well. One of the capital's most prominent landmarks is the Roman Catholic Cathedral that stands on the corner of Pratt and Murray streets. Built in 1902, the cathedral was made from sandstone imported from Australia and designed after European houses of worship. The boat-shaped interior of the Holy Trinity Cathedral is also worth exploring. The peaceful retreat is filled with Fijian tapestries, and its grounds showcase native Pacific plants like ferns and cacti. The bright orange and blue Shree Laxmi Narayan Temple is also open to visitors.
The country's religion, culture, archeology, politics and people can be better understood after visiting the Fiji Museum. The diverse collection paints a vivid picture of traditional life through jewelry, musical instruments, cooking tools, war clubs and more. The massive Ratu Finau takes center stage. The double-hulled canoe is a spectacular feat of engineering and a wonderful example of Fiji's design tradition.
Suva is just as rich in natural beauty as it is in culture. Teeming with tropical flora and melodic birdlife, Colo-i-Suva Forest Park features more than six kilometers of hiking trails that take visitors past gorgeous vistas, natural pools and dense patches of mahogany. The rainforest is one of the city's greatest treasures, home to 14 different bird species, including barking pigeons, scarlet robins, Fiji warblers, breasted musk parrots and others.
More compact but no less beautiful are the Thurston Gardens. The lack of heavy landscaping maintains the tropical element, and colorful vegetation spills over nearly every inch of the grounds. Avid horticulturalists will appreciate the detailed labels, tired travelers will find relief on the many benches, and everyone will enjoy the dense display of native flora.
Bay of Islands from Lami near Suva